Visit: 13 October 2023
Situated in the centre of Málaga, close to the cathedral, this Michelin listed restaurant has just a handful of tables, including some on the pedestrian street it fronts. The cuisine is a fusion combining traditional Spanish tapas with South American flourishes. Argentina-born chef Emi Schobert was a representative at the World Gastronomy Championship Bocuse D´Or, France 2015 and 2019. He has been taking part in culinary competitions for more than 15 years.
We chose a 12-course tasting menu at 100 Euros per person, and the optional matched wines at 45 Euros per person. There was also a 4-course set menu at lunch time at 50 Euros per head, with an optional wine pairing at 25 Euros per head.
We started with three canapes. The first was a carrot cream tartlet, with pumpkin, peanut praline, and grated almonds. Next was wild trout, with kimchi, salmon roe, and cured cucumber with fennel. Finally, there was a beef tartar, with radish and herbs. All three were very tasty and well prepared.
Next was a sequence of fish courses. This started with a silver snapper ceviche, with avocado, coriander, wildflowers, and a yellow pepper sauce. Then a very good vanilla infused roasted scallop, with brown butter emulsion, creamy sweet potato puree, pickled radish, and almonds. Finally, the fresh fish of the day was sea bream, and this was served with Guwahati lemon, cauliflower, cauliflower cream, parsley oil, and fish roe. The sea bream was particularly good and cooked perfectly.
A Morel mushroom was served on a chickpea blini, with two sauces – a creamy Parmesan sauce, and a caramelised onion sauce. This was followed by the duck breast, that was served with a celeriac puree, confit onion with crispy duck skin, a praline of nougat and almonds, and a Pedro Ximenez sauce. This was one of the best duck breasts I have ever eaten.
The final savoury course was an Angus beef sirloin, with thyme, pickled mushrooms, and pickled beetroot. Again, this was cooked accurately and was very tasty.
There were three desserts. Starting with caramelised apple pearls, with English custard infused with chamomile, sour soft cheese, and apple compote. Next was a dark chocolate ganache, with crumble, mango marmalade, and mixed berry coulis. Finally, there was a raspberry and chocolate truffle.
This was a very enjoyable meal. The restaurant was very busy, inside and out, and very lively. If you sit inside the restaurant, you can watch the chefs at work. The food and service were excellent. I highly recommend a visit if you are in Malaga.
Outside the restaurant:
Outside the restaurant:
Inside the restaurant and the kitchen: