Award: One Michelin star, 3 AA Rosettes
Visit: 20 May 2022, dinner for four people
The Cross in Kenilworth is located in a beautiful Grade II listed 19th-century inn. It was awarded a Michelin Star in 2014, just 12 months after opening, which has been retained ever since. You can read my reviews of previous visits here:
Chef-director, Adam Bennett, worked for Anton Mosimann at The Dorchester, London, and then in France, at Restaurant Guy Lassausaie in Lyon and Restaurant Marc Meurin in Bethune. In 2012, Adam was Britain’s entrant in the Bocuse d’Or championships, finishing fourth and winning the Best Meat Course prize. After eight years as Head Chef at Simpsons, Adam became Chef Director at The Cross in 2013. The renowned Chef-patron, Andreas Antona, also owns Simpsons, the Michelin-starred restaurant in Birmingham.
Tonight, we started with an amuse bouche of cheese croquettes served on either smoked mayonnaise or apple puree. These were very tasty. We were also served some very good homemade sourdough with excellent Ampersand butter.
The starter of crispy duck egg was served with Alsace bacon, peas, baby gem lettuce, and a chicken jus with Mill Piece thyme. The egg was perfectly cooked with a firm white and a runny yolk that enhances the chicken jus perfectly.
The potato, buttermilk and wild garlic soup was served with some very moreish ham and pine nut fritters on the side. This was another excellent starter.
I enjoyed a starter of yellow fin tuna tartar that was served with a very nice fresh radish salad, with finger lime and sesame. The tuna was very fresh, and the finger lime brought a nice citrus note to the dish.
A main course of Cornish skate was served with fennel, crushed potato, potted shrimps, and a brown butter sauce. My companion commented that the skate lacked flavour.
My main course of grilled fillet of Hereford beef, was served with a beef cheek and pickled walnut pie, king oyster mushrooms, green asparagus and with triple cooked chips on the side. The meat was cooked medium rare and was served with a very nice, deep beef jus. The chips were excellent and very crispy. This course was a £10 supplement.
The souffles at The Cross are always superb. Tonight, I enjoyed a 100% chocolate souffle, served with a warm chocolate sauce and Chantilly cream. This was very good.
My companions also tried the Alfonso mango crumble served with Kenilworth honey ice cream, that they really enjoyed it.
The service was very good. The cost of 3 courses from the a la carte menu is £75 per head, or you can try the tasting menu at £95 per head, with an optional cheese course at a £15 supplement. There is an optional wine flight to accompany the tasting menu at £80 per head.
The food and service at The Cross are excellent, and I will be returning very soon!